Today's average homeowner doesn't hesitate to pick up a hammer or paintbrush, but a surprising number of people have the notion that concrete and masonry work is much too difficult and best left to professionals.
While a lot of larger projects should be left to a professional, with the right tools, know-how, and of course Glenn Redi-Mix concrete and supplies, you too can do your own concrete and masonry work.
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STEP 1: SITE PREPARATION & PLANNING
Sub grade must be compacted and free of standing water
Forms must be secure and capable of withstanding load pressure of fresh concrete
Arrange enough help to place and finish concrete. Start with a minimum of two (2) people for a 2 cubic yard pour. Add one (1) person for each additional cubic yard of concrete. If you are using wheelbarrows to move the concrete from the truck to the forms, add an additional person.
Assign specific responsibilities to helpers before concrete arrives (I.e. who screeds, bull floats, washes tools, etc.)
Provide acceptable access for delivery:
- Pathway must be of stable soil
- Pathway must be at least ten (10) feet wide and fourteen (14) feet high
- Avoid bringing trucks over curbs, sidewalks, or driveways.
The discharge chutes can reach approximately twelve (12) feet
Concrete used for residential applications should be at least four (4) inches thick
Placement of control joints should be determined in the planning step
- Control joints should be placed no more than ten (10) feet apart
- Sections should be square or nearly so
- The joint depth should be at least ¼ the thickness of the concrete
- Avoid creating triangles or odd shaped panels when placing joints
STEP 2: PLACEMENT
Concrete must be discharged as close to final position as possible (eliminate "dragging" concrete long distances)
Concrete must be discharged in a timely manner upon arriving to the job site. If you are using wheelbarrows to move the concrete from the truck to the forms, make sure you have enough help to finish the project in a timely manner.
During the placement process, follow these easy steps:
- Strike off or "screed" the concrete to the proper elevation or form height with a wood or magnesium straight edge
- Immediately after striking off and before bleed water appears, the concrete must be bull floated and the edges formed with an edger.
- After bull floating, no finishing practices must take place until bleed water has completely evaporated.
Concrete will be glossy when bleed water is present and will dull when it evaporates.
STEP 3: FINISHING
Finishing is the process of texturing the concrete. If you are using hand-tooled control joints, these must be completed prior to final texturing. The following textures may be applied:
A broom or brush finish is recommended for exterior applications that require maximum skid resistance such as; sidewalks and driveways. To achieve a broom finish; simply push or pull the concrete broom across the concrete when it reaches the desired consistency; timing is a judgment call based on desired depth of broom texture
A porous trowel finish is recommended for exterior applications that require minimal skid resistance such as; patios and porches. To achieve a porous trowel finish; trowel the concrete when it reaches a consistency that supports your weight but leaves footprints approximately ¼" deep
A hard trowel finish is recommended for interior applications that require a non-porous surface such as shop floors and garage floors. To achieve a hard trowel finish the concrete must be finished with a power trowel.
For decorative or architectural finishes we recommend that you hire a qualified concrete contractor that specialize in decorative concrete.
STEP 4: CURING
Curing is the most important step in concrete placement, yet is typically the most neglected. To ensure that concrete reaches its maximum designed strength and durability, it must be properly cured. This process must begin as soon as the concrete will accept the process without damage to the surface. There are two methods for curing concrete:
Wet Curing is the process of keeping the concrete surface saturated. A garden sprinkler is typically used for this type of curing.
Curing Compound is a chemical that seals in the moisture. They are typically applied with a sprayer but can also be rolled on with a paint roller.
